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Messages - SeniorSteve

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1
Magnificent Magnavox / Re: Magnavox Stereo Theater 1MR418M restoration
« on: November 13, 2018, 08:28:56 PM »
0 - black
1 - brown
2 - red
3 - orange
4 - yellow
5 - green
6 - blue
7 - violet
8 - gray
9 - white
In vocational school I learned a little ditty that helped, but I can't print it here.

 :D

2
Sightings / Re: Large Console with Ampex Tape Deck Northern Wisconsin
« on: November 01, 2018, 10:44:10 AM »
Charles, I'm glad to see your new "holy grail" as your avatar.  Looks mighty fine!

3
Sightings / Re: Large Console with Ampex Tape Deck Northern Wisconsin
« on: November 01, 2018, 10:42:19 AM »
Bill, your top of the line 4-way Sylvania speakers might be model AS225 would they?  I have a pair of them and bought them new in 1977.  Absolutely stunning, although I did have to replace the tweeters, (I played them LOUD in my younger days), and the woofers surrounds were replaced because of foam rot.  Still, one of the best sounding speakers I have heard.  Nice to know I'm not alone with my pro Sylvania rheteric.

P.S.  I also have a Sylvania receiver  RS4744 which had 60 watts per channel.  Built like a tank!
Steve

4
Console Tales / Re: Guess what followed me home yesterday
« on: October 30, 2018, 10:19:15 AM »
On the Grundig I had I know it had the ELL80's because it was purchased by the friend I know while he was stationed in Germany.  It was interesting to note that the German model used the ELL80 and the ones Grundig exported to the USA had the EL95's.  There were two additional holes punched in the chassis that weren't used on the one I was working on.  Even the Sam's showed that the US version had the EL95's for output tubes.  The SO360 model was a 1963 model and I don't think the transistors were in use until a couple of years later.  All I know is when I gave it away it worked very well.  I was happy to clear up the room.  Sometimes this hobby really doesn't pay well, but I'm not in it for the money.  The mechanics on those sets are a challenge, especially the dial cords.

I did see the use of the ELL80 in the Fisher stereos and can't think of a good reason why they used them.  Only reason I can think of is some sort of impedance matching as the grid input would be high and being it is a cathode follower, the output would be low.  Interesting circuitry there as well.

5
Console Tales / Re: Guess what followed me home yesterday
« on: October 27, 2018, 12:53:45 PM »
Enjoy your Grundig!  Most of the ones I've seen are black lacquer, but Yours will be very nice once you do the clean and polish routine.  Those ELL80 tubes are rather expensive, but at one time Grundig made an adapter that converted the output from a single 9 pin ELL80 to two 7 pin sockets that were fitted with EL95 tubes.  The 7 pin tubes are much less expensive, but finding the adapter is like finding a needle in a haystack.  The electrical characteristics of the EL95 is the same as one half of the ELL80 tube.  I ended up making my adapters.
Another problem you may encounter is with pot metal and the dial stringing.  The issue is all mechanical as the pot metal just breaks apart.
I've only worked on a couple of German radio and stereos, but once they are working, they really do sound great, and the radios are quite sensitive.  You really have a nice console there.

Here's what I ended up using for the output tubes, it's not pretty, but it worked well.

6
Console Tales / Re: Console Obsession - how did it start for you?
« on: October 26, 2018, 08:51:40 PM »
The cartridge for the 1959 used a ceramic cartridge, but was damaged when I got it.  It used an EV-26 cartridge, but I ended up putting in a Pfanstiehl 226.  I may order the correct one and replace the replacement.  It makes the tone arm ride too high on the records as the cartridge is quite a bit bigger.  Depends on how available (and expensive) the EV-26 is.  The vane cartridge was only mono.

7
Console Tales / Re: Console Obsession - how did it start for you?
« on: October 26, 2018, 06:29:01 PM »
Ok I haven't been "collecting" for long and I don't have many (3 right now).  My first was a 1959 Zenith console SF2560 with the mono tuner and stereo phono with the cobra tone arm.  I wanted it because it used tubes and was push pull output.  I didn't realize how bad it was and I paid too much for it (first timer issues).  I was recently retired and thought this could be fun and it would keep me off the streets.   Next a friend was moving out of a house and needed to get rid of a Grundig stereo, so I picked it up for $20.00.  My first German unit and it did have some unique issues.  Pot metal was my biggest issue.  The unit had a different type of clutch arrangement, when it is in the "normal state the dial cord would tune the LW, MW and SW bands, but when you pressed the "UHF or FM" selection, it would disengage the normal clutch and engage a different one that would use a different dial string.  It also used some ELL80 output tubes and one was bad.  Looking at the tubes I see that an ELL80 is the equivalent of two EL95 tubes, so I made a bracket and wired 4 tube sockets to replace the originals.  That worked out great and was much less expensive.  At the time, all of the ELL80 tubes were running about 99.00 each and the EL95 tubes were 7.95 each which made it a no brainer.   I gave that one away about a year ago, just didn't want it around the house since I picked up a couple more consoles.  My next console was a RCA 3VF446 I got for $25.00.  It also was fully tubed and push pull output.  I did replace the woofers and sealed the speaker chambers as this console was easy to do that.  The sound is very nice, but I don't need the console around.  My last purchase was like Charles, the "holy grail" for me, a Zenith MM2670.  It was a tube and SS hybrid with a tube tuner and solid state amplifier.  On this one I also replaced the woofers and sealed the enclosures.  It may not get window rattling volume, but it sounds great!  I would like to get down to just this one, plus some of the component equipment I have.  My enjoyment comes from working on and repairing the stuff, so now I have to seriously look at letting some of this go out the door. 

Charles, I give you kudos for really knowing what you want to keep and what to let go.  I'm going to have to take a lesson from you and bite the bullet.  I know on much of the stuff I have put much more into the stuff than I would ever get out of it.  Your post has given me some incentive.

8
Electronics / Re: SAMS?
« on: October 24, 2018, 08:35:36 PM »
I'd send an email to Steve Johnson, even though he may not have the Sam's folder, he may have the Zenith documentation.  His scans of Sam's folders are MUCH better than the ones you get from the "official" Sam's website. 

Are you having some issues with the console besides the R-R tape deck?
We love to help.

9
Record Changer Repair and Restoration / Re: Zenith Belt Drive
« on: October 12, 2018, 11:21:49 PM »
You should still be able to loosen the platter from the sub-platter as it is now.  The only thing is you won't be able to pull the cast aluminum platter up off the turntable.  The clam shell halves have to contact each other to give you enough clearance when pulling it off.
It might take the bend back if it wasn't bent too far over in the first place.  A piece of small pipe over the top part of the spindle may give you enough control to slowly bend it back.  I wish you lick with it (crossing fingers).

Steve

10
Record Changer Repair and Restoration / Re: Zenith Belt Drive
« on: October 12, 2018, 09:15:20 PM »
Chazglenn3, I have to agree, the thing is bent, but the big question is can it be straightened without the metal fatiguing and breaking.  That one is newer than mine as it has the low mass tone arm and one of the best they ever offered.  Do you want to have me take a picture of mine with the 45 rpm adapter up?  Basically, the top of the spindle should be centered in the hole of the adapter.  That's a bummer.

Steve

11
Record Changer Repair and Restoration / Re: Zenith Belt Drive
« on: October 12, 2018, 06:41:18 PM »
The top part of the spindle does have a slight slant towards the support arm base.  If you lift up the clamshell adaptor and it is centered in the hole on top, I don't think you have a problem.  To get the platter off you do have to lift the clamshell into the "45" position and then pull up on the platter.  There are three rubber grommets that after time get like glue and hold the platter to the subplatter assembly.  When you pull the platter off, the 45 adaptor stays with the sub platter, you can see where the platter will lift up around the assembly.  I'm hoping the spindle isn't bent, these are quite nice changers.

12
Chat / Re: Log In Problem
« on: October 01, 2018, 05:09:42 PM »
I have had issues logging in here, but my solution was to enter my login name and hit enter before entering the password.  It comes back with user name/password combination invalid, and at that time I enter my password.  This is the only site I have to do this to log in.  Also I have to use the "Login" in the black strip at the top left to do the procedure.  I found my solution and don't consider it a problem.  It's just an extra return between the login name and password is all.  I'm using Firefox, which gives me the proper format, when using Chrome it's all messed up.  I'm sure I could dig into Chrome to find out why the format isn't correct, but to me it's not worth the effort.

My 2 cents.
Steve

13
Other Solid State Console Brands / Re: Sylvania Maestro SC919K
« on: October 01, 2018, 04:53:51 PM »
Yes they all used germanium output transistors (Zenith, Sylvania and most of the major console manufacturers up through the late 60's).  The SC919 had the top of the line Sylvania power amplifier which used a split power supply on the output transistors and no coupling capacitor.  It potentially had a voltage swing on the output of + or - 45 volts if perfect.  I have a Sylvania component receiver (RS4744) that has + and - 50 volt power supplies and is rated at 60 watts RMS per channel, so I would guess the console is slightly less, maybe about 50-55 watts RMS per channel, and in the mid 60's that was a LOT of power.

The Zenith B966 had a single power supply of around 65 volts so split that in half and you have about a + and - 32 volt supply to work with.  If perfect, you could potentially get about 25-30 watts RMS power per channel.  Still, because the speakers were matched to the amplifier, they really pushed out the sound.  I have a Zenith MM 2670 console with a 55 volt single power supply which in 1964 was rated at 320watts - I believe IHF.  In actuality, I believe it really only puts out about 20-25 watts maximum per channel, but sounds incredible.  Unless you are expecting window shattering volumes, don't get bent on the wattage rating, the efficiency of the speakers and other factors outweighed the pure power rating.

Consoles from the very late 50's through the 60's are the ones I really like to work on as you can get almost all of the parts for them easily.  That is except custom items like dial glass or knobs or other such items.

Motorola Minion, when you start working on your Sylvania, be very careful with the dial glass, I thought a quick wipe down would not harm it, but was unpleasantly surprised when it did - worst of all it was not mine to disfigure.  The dial glass was very similar to the SC919, but it had the log scale between the AM and FM number markings instead of the metal divider.  If I could only go back in time with the new knowledge.  The thing I liked about the Sylvania was they used a Dual record changer in their top of the line sets with magnetic cartridges, and I think those were some of the best changers made at the time, even now they do get a good price for working models as they are fairly gentle on records (for a changer).

Steve


14
Wanted / Re: Dial glass for Sylvania console
« on: September 27, 2018, 11:29:22 AM »
Motorola Minion, you have a very close dial glass.  The knobs are the same, but the glass is different as the selection of inputs is by push buttons along the top of the face.  I tried scanning the glass with a black background so the numbers would show up better.  It also shows my "handiwork" when I was cleaning.  There was a "Log" scale running down the middle that I did the most damage to.  I ended up trying to clean most of it off to clean it up.  Even with a soft bristle paintbrush, the letters came off very easily.  I don't have the chassis anymore as I sent it back to the owner, but I'm still looking to see if I can find one to replace it.  Here's one of the scans so you can get an idea, the actual glass is about a quarter inch overlapped on both ends as I have a flatbed scanner.  It's also a little blurry because I couldn't set it directly on the scanner glass.  In any case it gives you an idea.  Thanks very much for taking the time to check for me. 

15
Wanted / Dial glass for Sylvania console
« on: September 15, 2018, 03:36:26 PM »
Electronic parts are not that hard to come by, but dial glass with the frequency numbers can make or break a repair.  I have a Sylvania  console chassis that has been "altered" from trying to clean it.  It is off of a Sylvania 1966 R14-5 chassis that reads left to right, not front to back.  I know this would be a Looong shot, but thought I'd ask if anybody has an old console that isn't working, and wants to sell the dial glass (or the whole chassis for that matter).  Can't hurt to ask now, can it?

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