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Messages - TC Chris

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Wanted / High-temp insulation (spaghetti)
« on: August 15, 2018, 08:53:36 PM »
I wonder if anybody has some high-temp spaghetti, the woven kind that you'll find in the wiring for coffee makers and other heat producers.  I need a 1" piece--yeah, one inch--with maybe 1/4" ID.  It's for the replacement connector that goes to the lamp holder for my Mustang driving light.  The original used a rubber insulation. 

I usually have something like that in my stash of Very Valuable Junk That I Will Need Some Day, but it seems to be hiding.

Chris Campbell

Chat / Re: High temp adhesive?
« on: August 14, 2018, 09:28:54 PM »
I looked at the JB Weld package and it said that it's suitable for up to 550 degrees F,  Geez, the little halogen bulb can't cook things that hot, can it?  So I glued the tiny ceramic holder up with JB Weld.  After I start dinner cooking, I'll solder the rivet that seemed to be the high resistance point and then install the bulb this weekend.

Chris Campbell

Wanted / Re: Circa 1962 Magnavox Console Owners Manual and Info Packet
« on: August 14, 2018, 09:25:57 PM »
Maybe the solution is just to make high-quality scans.  Then everybody who wanted the literature could download it and have it printed in the quality they prefer, at their own expense.

Chris Campbell

Magnificent Magnavox / Re: Magnavox Stereo Theater 1MR418M restoration
« on: August 14, 2018, 09:20:15 PM »
That's a good suggestion, Chris.  I had considered and rejected a similar idea.  It may be time to revisit that line of thinking.  It will be simpler and still get the job done.  Any suggestions on how high off the ground would be best?  Is 12" too low?

For me, working bent-over is the worst position.  I'll either stand or kneel down.  Years ago I built a little step stool out of scrap lumber and then dressed it up with paint & varnish.  The goal was to get some extra height for lifting the iceboat onto the truck rack.  But then it proved helpful for working on the sailboat in the marina boat barn--sitting on it for low projects, standing for things that didn't really need a ladder.  It's just over a foot high, and has a handle slot cut in the middle of the top.  Must useful tool I ever made.

So maybe your bench could be the right height for standing for most work, and then have a stool of some kind when you need a little more height or for sitting on when you want to be low.

Chris Campbell

Magnificent Magnavox / Re: Magnavox Stereo Theater 1MR418M restoration
« on: August 13, 2018, 10:49:25 PM »
How about just a low bench out of 2x4s and plywood or OSB?  You don't really need much rotation for refinishing.  A simple approach gives more time for actual work.  I did my GE radio cabinet on a Workmate,  bit too high but the cabinet was light enough to flip it around onto its back. 

Chris Campbell

Chat / Another car question
« on: August 13, 2018, 09:03:36 PM »
Hey, it's summer, so my attention is diverted to outdoor stuff like cars, boats, and bicycles.  Tonight I gave the Mustang its annual wash.  It deserves more frequent attention but time is a scarce commodity.

So as  get older and older (somebody rudely pointed out that I have entered my 8th decade--ouch!) the future has fewer and fewer years left and I start thinking about paying somebody else to do some of the projects that I don't have time for, at east until I retire.  So I figured that maybe it's time to have the Chevy engine rebullt.  When it was stored, it was belching lots of fumes from the road draft tube.  There's a sign....  Plus the fact that it won't start.  So I stated calling around to find an engine rebuilder. Geez, here I'm trying my best to spend money and nobody wants to take it.  They all start explaining why they don't really want to take it on. 

 I've got a few guys I'll ask to see if they know any, but online searches haven't yielded much useful info.  So I wonder whether anybody has good advice in finding an engine rebuilder.

Chris Campbell

Cabinets, Cloth, Finishes / Re: Magnavox Cabinet Upkeep
« on: August 12, 2018, 10:25:25 AM »
You said that you will be "replacing all the tubes."  Better to use a capable tube tester to figure out which ones are gone.  Even tubes that test 'weak" will often perform satisfactorily in a circuit.  It's worth spending some time checking tube socket connections--clean the tube pins and socket contacts. It's easy to blame problems on tubes--we all do it because they're so much faster and easier to replace than, say, a failed capacitor. But wholesale replacements aren't usually the best use of your money. 

The finish question depends on the problem.  If it's just a bit dull and worn, a soap-and-water wash followed by a 50/50 mix of boiled linseed oil and turpentine can make thinks look good. Or Maybe some Howard's finish restorer.  Or just a wash and some paste wax.  We all have favorite approaches. Others may suggest different ones.

Chris Campbell

Wanted / Re: 27ZP4 picture tube
« on: August 09, 2018, 09:22:17 PM »
Mine is the only one I know of that anyone has attempted to restore.  Most are taken apart for the amplifier.  Surely there are some spare CRT's laying around.  Your point about how long it took to find the ST is well-taken.

The take-apart-for-the-amp crowd are not going to save a CRT.  It'll get pitched into the landfill on the next trash pickup day.  You need a hoarder like me who figures, "some day, somebody's gonna want that."  I have so much good junk....  Too bad there's not a national version of our local Freecycle.  Maybe try asking on ARF.

Chris Campbell

Chat / Re: High temp adhesive?
« on: August 09, 2018, 09:14:53 PM »
I applied DeOxit and then scrubbed the contacts with steel wool.  But it appears that the high resistance occurs where the connection lugs are riveted to the bulb holder contacts.  I was using a Harbor Freight digital VOM, not my good analog one, but it registered very different resistances between the lugs that bulb contacts.  If soldering the rivets gives more consistent resistance readings, I'll apply some more DeOxit before reinstalling.

Chris Campbell

Magnificent Magnavox / Re: Magnavox Stereo Theater 1MR418M restoration
« on: August 08, 2018, 10:13:00 PM »
On the hum, remember the rule about checking simple things first--tube sockets, connectors, then paper capacitors.

Chris Campbell

Chat / Re: High temp adhesive?
« on: August 08, 2018, 09:06:20 PM »
My driving/fog lights were not made by Ford.  They're Marechal (probably intended to sound cool & exotic).  And that tiny ceramic bulb holder is even rarer than the light housing/lens assemblies themselves.  Lights offered online often are missing them.  I could buy a whole light and hope that it included the ceramic part, but dammit, I'm way to cheap to pay $100 just to get a bulb holder. 

So I'll try the high-temp epoxy route.  The bulb itself will kinda hold the holder together, and the epoxy will add some more strength.

Now can anybody recommend a source for high-temp "spaghetti"-- the stuff that's used to slide over bare wires or conductors to insulate them?  My new connector in the light is bare and the originals had some sort of rubber shrink-wrap over them.  The spring wire that holds the ceramic holder in place uses some sort of high-temp woven spaghetti.

Always a challenge....

Chris Campbell

Chat / Re: High temp adhesive?
« on: August 07, 2018, 08:22:14 PM »
Thanks for the suggestions.  Most of my epoxy work, except for small repairs, has been for woodworking.  I built a sea kayak with epoxy as sealant and adhesive and have used it for various repairs on wood and fiberglass parts of sailboats. The epoxies formulated for woodworking tend to soften at high temperatures.  In fact, Gougeon Brothers (makers of WEST System epoxies, formulated for use with wood) advise use of a soldering iron to remove fasteners in their epoxies--just heat the fastener, like a screw, and then it will back out. 

Last night I used JB Weld for the first part of an outboard motor repair.  The primer/idle speed advance knob on my Merc 8 h.p. is plastic.  The knob is integral with its 1/4" plastic shaft, and the shaft broke off right at the knob.  I bought some 5/16" brass tubing and drilled a hole in the knob to accept it. Then came a little hole sideways for a brass screw into the tubing from the side, then I filled the knob end of the tube with JB Weld.  That should hold the brass screw in place. Next weekend I'll poke some JB Weld into the tube and slide it onto the shaft.  First I'll file some flats onto the plastic to give the epoxy something to grab.  I drilled a few holes in the brass tubing for the same purpose.  I'll cover them with tape but they will give some mechanical grip.  I don't much trust epoxy on plastic.  Gougeon Bros. have a technique for using theirs on plastic.  Sand, then wave a propane torch over the surface to burn off the plasticizers.  I tried it on something (an old Porta-Potti, the bottom tank that holds the nasty stuff) and it worked, but when it comes to plastic, let's use belt and suspenders if we can.

But certainly any epoxy formulated for exhaust manifolds out to endure whatever heat the little halogen bulb gives off.  That's a great suggestion.  I'll give it a try.  But first I'm going to solder the #$@*&@^!!! rivets to the contact surface on the bulb holder. 

Chris Campbell

Chat / High temp adhesive?
« on: August 06, 2018, 08:24:13 PM »
OK, guys, save my butt here.  One of the Mustang driving lights was dim.  It's the same one that was out until I wiggled the bulb in its holder a year or so ago.  I took it apart and the little slide connector broke off.  Came home where the pars are and crimped a new one on.  But before putting it together I decided to check resistances.  Across the bulb, a halogen, it was very ow.  But at the socket lugs, it was high.  I cleaned all the contact surfaces--still high.  That meant that the little rivets that hold the lugs on must not be making good contact.  I tried to use a center punch to firm up the rivet. But then the bulb holder fell off my little anvil--a pin punch--and BROKE.  Aargh!!!!  I thought it was plastic but it was ceramic--because it holds that hot bulb.

These things are unobtanium.  Even the whole lights go for $$$ on eBay.  Many that are offered lack the bulb holders. 

So is there any glue (adhesive) that tolerates high temp that I can use to glue my little ceramic device back together?

Chris Campbell,
aka Clumsy Fumble-Finger

Magnificent Magnavox / Re: Magnavox Stereo Theater 1MR418M restoration
« on: August 03, 2018, 05:13:30 PM »
This set does not have any bumble bees that I have seen.  The caps in the TV chassis are either ceramic or plastic.  My only question is do I have the "good' plastic caps?

I just tried and failed to find my capacitor info collection.  One online site said that for the NOS black plastic ones (Cornell-Dubilier??), RED lettering/numbers  were good, yellow were untrustworthy.  I'll look for my info stash again.

Chris Campbell

Chat / restored WW II movie
« on: August 02, 2018, 09:23:48 PM »
Our film festival is on this week.  A friend always gets me a ticket to something good.  This year it was the restored version of a film about the B-17 "Memphis Belle," the first to survive 25 missions over Germany.  The film had deteriorated by Erik Nelson found the original footage and restored it to full color and resolution.  It's called "The Memphis Belle."  If you seek it, make sure to get the restored version.  Nelson showed a sequence of before & after images--night and day difference.  The film was made by famous Hollywood director William Wyler, who flew--with three cinematographers--in real combat over Germany, some of the most dangerous action in WW II.  Wyler was too old for the war but volunteered to do this (unlike John Wayne, who stayed home).  Erik Nelson then made a new film, "The Cold Blue," using Wyler's footage (some in the original film, some never used) with voice-overs by actual B-17 crew members.  It's not quite finished so we saw only the first 40 minutes ("the good stuff," Nelson said).

There's a documentary about five famous Hollywood directors who went overseas in WW II (Wyler, Ford, Stevens, Capra, and Huston) called "Five Came Back."  I haven't seen it, but there's a great review here:

Chris Campbell

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