Author Topic: 1961 Fisher Custom Electra IV Restoration  (Read 371 times)

Consoleman

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1961 Fisher Custom Electra IV Restoration
« on: September 02, 2017, 03:00:31 PM »
I posted this in sightings recently and grabbed it today. It appears to be complete and original. Cabinet needs some TLC. Looking forward to documenting the resto here!!
Mark

walyfd

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Re: 1961 Fisher Custom Electra IV Restoration
« Reply #1 on: September 02, 2017, 04:14:24 PM »
Congratulations.  You'll enjoy it.  They're great units.

Consoleman

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Re: 1961 Fisher Custom Electra IV Restoration
« Reply #2 on: September 03, 2017, 08:34:59 AM »
OK, first problem -- how does the Garrard RC-210 come out of the cabinet? I loosened the three screws over the springs but it doesn't want to come up.
Mark

Pat L

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Re: 1961 Fisher Custom Electra IV Restoration
« Reply #3 on: September 03, 2017, 10:05:51 AM »
Hi Mark,
On Fishers the entire board/plinth the record changer is mounted to comes out easily. I just take it out as an assembly and at that point you will find it easy.
Pat

Consoleman

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Re: 1961 Fisher Custom Electra IV Restoration
« Reply #4 on: September 04, 2017, 07:57:44 AM »
It seems these units were not designed for serviceability! The amp and tuner are hard-wired together instead of using plugs and sockets, with all wires stapled to the cabinet.

Any advice on removing the tuner faceplate? Three screws on the right side were removed and it lifts up slightly but is stuck otherwise. The tuner appears to drop in to slots from the top. I suppose the amp has to come out behind it.

The record changer board also lifts a bit on the left side but is also stuck. No access from below, for some reason they boxed the changer in.
Mark

Consoleman

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Re: 1961 Fisher Custom Electra IV Restoration
« Reply #5 on: September 04, 2017, 09:21:05 AM »
OK, it's all apart. There were three screws underneath holding the tuner faceplate in place, after that it took a pry bar from underneath to work it loose. I had to take the light out of the changer compartment for clearance.
Mark

Pat L

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Re: 1961 Fisher Custom Electra IV Restoration
« Reply #6 on: September 04, 2017, 09:47:11 AM »
A word of caution, the dial glass stenciling is not as durable as on other consoles. Be careful not to wipe it off during cleaning.




Consoleman

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Re: 1961 Fisher Custom Electra IV Restoration
« Reply #7 on: September 04, 2017, 12:25:16 PM »
A word of caution, the dial glass stenciling is not as durable as on other consoles. Be careful not to wipe it off during cleaning.

The dial glass is stuck in place (after removing the retaining tabs) and I'm afraid I'm going to crack it prying it out. The manual says to use soap and water.

Turns out the tuner is connected to the amp with a plug and socket, it just didn't look that way.
Mark

Motorola Minion

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Re: 1961 Fisher Custom Electra IV Restoration
« Reply #8 on: September 05, 2017, 11:56:16 AM »
The dial glass can stay where it is. I cleaned it using a Swiffer pad wrapped on a plastic strap, got all the dust out.

Those dial lights are like old GM dome lights. Not easy to find in 6 volts. Mine were modified pigtail lamps. I think there are LED replacements available or you can make your own.
Tubes - Magical - Tubes

Dave

ed from Baltimore

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Re: 1961 Fisher Custom Electra IV Restoration
« Reply #9 on: February 22, 2018, 08:14:42 AM »
        If this is the Fisher schematic I remember seeing, there are 22 kohm series resistors in the grid leads of the EL84s going to the cathode side only of the phase inverter 12AX7.  The plate-coupled side of the phase inverter uses a  1000 ohm parasitic suppressor seen in most power amplifier.
      The only other schematic I have seen with a series 22k resistor in only the cathode phase inverter connected EL84 is in all of the RCA EL84 stereo amplifiers with 6CG7 phase-inverters. I think in the 6V6 amplifiers too.
        Dynaco had 390 pF capacitors feeding back from the output tube screen to the voltage amp cathode to minimize "high frequency unbalance inherent in this type of phase inverter"  (their words in the Dyna MkIII manual)
          Later Fisher amps, such as in their receivers, did not have the 22k resistors, even though they had the same split load phase inverter. RCA seems to have used them until they went to solid state.
         Years ago, when trying to get rid of speaker cone "breathing" which occurred for a second or two after overdriving a guitar amplifier with EL34 output tubes and the same phase inverter, I saw a "charge-up effect" in the cathode connected EL34 grid only, but not in the plate coupled grid. A 47k series resistor in the grid of he EL34 got rid of the problem and I substituted that value in my Dyna MK III amps. I thought I had done something original until I saw the RCA and Fisher schematics.
         Has anyone seen an explanation of the 22k resistors in either RCA or Fisher
literature ?  I'd feel better about the changes I've made if there were explanations in the literature.  The only other changes I've made in factory designs if separate cathode resistors and bypass capacitors in push-pull circuits, especially when they use one resistor for 4 output tubes in stereo power circuits like some Motorola and Magnavox circuits I seem to remember.