[picard]

This is the next one I am going to restore. I got this one Saturday at an antique mall for $50. Not in bad shape . All original and untouched except the top was painted gold.

[Larry H]

Top should be mahogany veneer like the rest of the cabinet.

[picard]

I might have to refinish the whole cabinet but hope to just redo the top if I can find a close match.

[Harbourmaster]

I would sand that crap off and see whats under it.

[TC Chris]

I would sand that crap off and see whats under it.

My choice might be chemical removal.  I'm not sure how thick the veneers are, and sanding could cut right through if you get carried away.  Use a chemical stripper for the hard work, then sand with fine grits to clean things up.  Maybe use some bleach if there are water stains, and then use chemical (alkaline) and dye/pigment stains for adding color. 

This summer I picked up a nice ca. 1935 GE console radio.   It has some lifted veneers, but they are really thick, surprisingly so.  That will make it easy to reglue them.  More recently veneers have become thinner and thinner until some are paper thin.

Chris Campbell

[picard]

The paint smells fresh. I think it as only been on a couple of days. I'm hoping it will wipe off with paint thinner .

[TC Chris]

There are several less-toxic (also less aggressive) paint removers available.  I tried some of them when removing some paint on the interior of my small sailboat because I didn't want to be breathing the toxic methylene chloride fumes from the stronger varieties.  Great idea but no success.  I gradually upped the ante until I was using the strongest (and probably most toxic) version of Zip-Strip.  That worked.  I tried not breathing.   It was odd paint--it was very tenacious where it wanted to stick, and in other places it came off in great flakes.  You should try the safe removers first if the thinner approach doesn't work.

Chris Campbell

[picard]

This is a really good idea someone thought of. Every thing I need in one kit. I wonder if they do this for every model?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/RCA-MODEL-SHF6-RECORD-PLAYER-AMPLIFIER-AMP-REBUILD-KIT-/361056583043?hash=item5410a63d83:g:rvkAAOSwd4tUHKq3

[Larry H]

This is a really good idea someone thought of. Every thing I need in one kit. I wonder if they do this for every model?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/RCA-MODEL-SHF6-RECORD-PLAYER-AMPLIFIER-AMP-REBUILD-KIT-/361056583043?hash=item5410a63d83:g:rvkAAOSwd4tUHKq3

I can buy all the capacitors you need for this amp, electrolytics included, for less than $15.  You won't need all those resistors and picofared
caps.

[Larry H]

Here is the photofact page that shows the caps.  Only the fixed capacitors with a decimal need replaced.... with 630-volt caps.

[Larry H]

Wax cap replacements-- You need the following in 630-volts.  I always replace all wax caps with 630 volts regardless of their voltage ratings.

1--   .0022

1-    .0056

1-    .015

4-    .047

1-    .0015

[picard]

I'm having a  hard time finding matches for the electrolytics for  C2 and C3. I use just radio's .

[Larry H]

I'm having a  hard time finding matches for the electrolytics for  C2 and C3. I use just radio's .

C2 is a 50mfd. 6-volt capacitor.  Replace that one with a 47mfd. 50-volt capacitor.  It will be a tiny electrolytic.

C3 is the crossover capacitor between the tweeters and the woofer, an 8mfd. non-polarized electrolytic capacitor.  You may not need to replace that crossover.  Never use a polarized electrolytic (with a + and a -) for that capacitor.

[picard]

Thanks. I will try and place the order tonight .

[picard]

Really . This thing has five idler wheels? That's like $100